A Links Lockdown
BY ED HODGE
5 MINS READ
Sam Cooper’s Twitter bio really says it all. ‘Driving round Britain in a converted van, playing every #LinksGolf course I can find’.
In the company of his understanding wife, Harriet, the two-handicapper and Royal Liverpool (Hoylake) member turned the challenges of 2020 into one of the most memorable years of his life. It’s a journey that started in Scotland… and is still going. It’s a story of love, links and laughter. Of a van and views. Of drives… on and off the course. So, in his own words, here it is. Take it away, Sam.
In the beginning…
It’s funny, looking back. There we were walking our two dogs on the beach near our home at West Kirby on The Wirral. Then a global pandemic arrived. It gets you thinking… and we did.
During the first COVID-19 lockdown, back in March time 2020, Harriet and I had wanted to take a bit of time out anyway from the businesses we had set up – it had been pretty unrelenting. It just so happened we were coming to a natural point between things and were looking at our next project. It gave us a bit of time to do something. International travel looked overly optimistic and, as a passionate golfer, fan of golf course architecture and photography, and us both enjoying exploring the coastline, we thought we could travel around the entire coast of Great Britain! From that original idea, it snowballed to the point of trying to play and photograph every links golf course in Britain. It’s going to be pushing 200 by the time we’re done, around Scotland, England and Wales.
Love of links…
Links golf is very special, it’s the type of golf that gets me the most excited. You can have such variety, depending on which way the wind is blowing. I’ve been a member at Hoylake since I was nine. I’ve grown up with links golf on the Lancashire coast, playing the likes of Royal Birkdale, Formby, Hillside, Wallasey and West Lancashire. My father was a country member of Royal St David’s so we used to go there quite a bit, too. There doesn’t seem to be a definite list of links courses in Britain anywhere and it could change over time anyway. The book, True Links, is very good, but that’s worldwide. In 2019, we did the North Coast 500 route in Scotland and that journey gave me the bug to go off the beaten path and find other golf courses.
The wheels…
We had a commercial van converted, basically. During lockdown, we stumbled on this YouTube channel which featured people in the US who converted vans – like standard commercial vans into sort of glamper vans, really smart. It’s small and a big adjustment, but it has given us freedom and flexibility. It would have been absolutely impossible to stick to any plan given COVID, so it’s been liberating really. And by complete good fortune going round Scotland we were in low infection areas for weeks and weeks, so didn’t need to go home. We can’t do the same cooking as we do at home, so we were able to go into some local restaurants. We started in early September in Kintyre and went up the west coast, the Western Isles, through the Highlands, across to Aberdeen and back down to East Lothian. With a range of accommodation options to choose from in a small corner of Scotland, the area has everything you need for a memorable golf trip. The fact the region is just 30 minutes’ drive from the nation’s historic capital, Edinburgh, and all boxes are ticked for a visit with family or friends.
The golf…
In terms of a destination, I absolutely loved Kintyre. I fell in love with Machrihanish, I loved Dunaverty and also enjoyed Carradale, two thirds of the way down the eastern side of Kintyre. Carradale was a £15 green fee, 9 holes, and looks a little uninspiring as you walk up a really steep par-3 to start with. I then got to the top of the hill and the views just blew me away. It has so many amazing holes, yet it is completely off the radar. It is the kind of place I’ve really enjoyed. It’s kind of golf relative to your expectations. You don’t expect anything, then the course is so much fun and it sticks in your mind. Carradale was one of those, Shiskine is another, even though it’s pretty well known now, with Traigh, near Arisaig, another gem. It’s privately owned, by David Shaw Stewart. I ended up having a game with David at Muirfield, where he is a member, later on our Scottish trip! The great connections that golf brings, a sport like no other. Traigh is a really cool place. The green fees are around £20 on the west coast. It’s wonderful golfing country.
The favourite region…
Further north, maybe my favourite destination is the Highlands. As a quality destination to go and play golf, I think it’s the measure or equal to anywhere. Royal Dornoch could be my favourite course in Britain, I think it’s absolutely world-class. There is something to suit everyone. I was also blown away by Skibo Castle and how good that was. The golf course was wonderful, in addition to the experience. Castle Stuart was fantastic, but so too are Golspie and Brora.
Durness is another amazing course to play. It’s such a cool 9-holer and is miles from anywhere. It’s probably the most spectacular setting of any course I’ve played in the whole of Britain.
As we’ve travelled, it’s really grown some momentum with people following our activity. Harriet doesn’t play, but as we have our two dogs with us, she enjoys walking with them or exploring the coastline we happen to be at. It’s worked well.
And more golf…
Along the banks of the Moray Firth, I enjoyed Covesea. It’s fantastic, up and down, with beautiful views. It’s nestled in a cove right on the coast between Lossiemouth and Hopeman. It’s a long drive to get to these places, but you are rewarded when you get there. Between Aberdeen and up to the Highlands at Brora, there is so much choice. Aberdeen is another incredible area for golf. I thought Murcar Links was even better than I expected, with obviously Royal Aberdeen next door. Trump International is incredible too, those dunes on the front nine are just ridiculously good.
Overall, I’ve been hosted by people, met friends for a guest rate, while local people at clubs have been so nice. Every few days we’ve had a night in a hotel to warm up a bit from the cold nights… and charge my battery on my drone. It’s made it slightly more civilised.
The end game…
I think a book is my goal. I don’t think there is any significant photo book, coffee table-style, out there covering all the links of Britain. That’s what I would love to produce on the back of this journey. I really love my drone photography and I just have to keep taking really nice images from each venue. I think a paperback journal could accompany the photo book too. This is now a wonderful passion. Clubs do travel, after all.
You can follow the golf links of Sam on:
Twitter: @sd_cooper
Instagram: @links_from_the_road
Website: https://sdcoopergolf.com